My Second Morning: Musings on Music, Monkeys, and Making Progress with our Project

I write to you tonight on the heels of an amazing live outdoor performance by some dear old friends in the folk-Americana-roots-rock band Spuyten Duyvil. The husband-and-wife team of Mark Miller and Beth Kaufman, who front the band, have known me for nearly a decade, when I used to perform at their Park Hill Racquet Club summer events in Yonkers, NY. In the time since those summer nights, their band has evolved immensely and grown into something I don't think any of us could have imagined way back when. They're now staples in national and regional folk festivals and have achieved significant airplay with their records. Yet, much like my friendship with Ben, we've remained in touch over the various tracks our lives have taken, and it was incredible to see them perform live tonight. I was covered in goosebumps for much of the concert, and the (very large) audience was captive during the entire show.

Why is this important? Because the feeling of a live performance for an appreciative audience is a big part of today's story for me. The energy I felt playing in La Libertad was rather similar to the energy I felt listening to Mark, Beth, and the rest of Spuyten Duyvil tonight in a park on Long Island. It reminded me why I love performing – and listening to – live music. Music has always and will always be a driving force in making me who I am.

With that, here is my second (and, apologetically, VERY long) post, taken from notes from my second morning – after my first full day - in La Libertad.

**

I'm thankful I played for the village last night. I almost cried. Everyone was so rapt and attentive and thankful. It was amazing. More stars than I've ever seen in my life provided the backdrop for one of the most emotional performances I've ever delivered. My skin was sticky covered in layers of sunscreen and bug spray, my clothes were dirty and soaked with sweat and humidity. I hadn't worn makeup since I'd left NYC and my hair was in the same Heidi-esque braids I'd put it in our first day in Leticia to keep it out of my face in the heat. I'd never been so completely myself for a performance while also being so completely out of my element. I usually performed in classy wine bars or smoky rock clubs in the States, but here, I was standing outside in the middle of a pathway and nobody spoke the language I was singing in. Nobody wore makeup and nobody cared that I didn't either. Though I had just arrived the day before, the villagers gathered around – babies to grandparents – and sat quietly on a bench, on rocks, and on the ground. They came trailing out of their homes once I started singing the first songs and continued to sit down and listen until it was completely dark and time for bed.

Very rarely am I so overcome with emotion while performing that it becomes difficult for me to continue playing, but this was one such instance. I have never felt the level of connection between myself and an audience – despite the language barrier, they could still feel the emotion of every song I played. The attentiveness is almost unheard of here in the states. Add to this the fact I was performing in a totally remote village in the Amazon rainforest, and I just had trouble containing the overwhelming feeling that yes, this is my real life. I am living and breathing in this very moment, and these wonderful people are sharing this moment with me. How lucky I am to be here, to have come so far from my poor and sheltered upbringing, and to be able to share something that means so much to me with people who truly appreciate it.

Aside of my performance which closed my first full day in the village, we were also immensely productive. Our day started early with the sun and the roosters, and then began the first of multiple “presentaciones” of the current state of the project with village members. Many of the interested villagers met us in our cabin for the first presentation in the morning, during which we discussed the first steps to move the project forward. Health and safety considerations for volunteers were important. We needed consistent water storage and filtration for all volunteers. We also needed better cooking accommodations and a specific volunteer kitchen so we would not need to inconvenience Gustavo's family to cook our meals. A shower area was also to be constructed in the volunteer area and the water was to be used in an order: clean for drinking, grey water for showering, and then shower water recycled to flush the toilet, so we would be using the water as much as possible and not wasting any. Luckily, the villagers all agreed to these improvements, as they understood that without proper accommodations it would be difficult for future volunteers to visit and stay for any length of time.

The next steps after the improvements were discussing possible options for export from the village. Ben's research had indicated that growing cocoa in the village would be relatively easy due to the climate and location, and the exported cocoa would net them quite a bit more money than other crops. It wouldn't happen overnight – a cocoa plantation takes about two years to get started – but we could discuss with neighboring tribes who were successfully growing cocoa and hopefully work together to develop the best practices and products. Throughout the day we presented I believe three or four times total, but it was really great to see good people who want to work come together to improve their intriguing paradise community.

We asked the children for the bag of teaching materials left by previous volunteers so I began sorting through them to figure out some sort of lesson plan. I would highly recommend anyone going to teach to bring tape, markers, photocopied worksheets/activity sheets with crayons, and possibly some lesson plans. Since we didn't know what we'd find I hadn't created any lesson plans prior to my trip, and I'd never formally taught English before. I've been a music teacher for almost six years, which is somewhat of a language, but it's still very different. I organized the materials and decided to do repeated units on colors, animals, and numbers with the children. I hoped to have classes with the adults too but wasn't sure what to expect yet and didn't want to get ahead of myself.

We have much work to do on the project as a whole – but this is definitely not something I can go home and ignore. I may not be back for a while but everyone has been so kind and helpful with my Spanish. When I said I wanted to go to Peru since we are so close Gustavo said he will bring me since I have never gone. So many things both for me and for them.

Aside from the presentations, work discussions, studying and lesson planning, and musical performances, I also saw one of the most beautiful displays of love I've ever seen. A baby monkey – called a mico in the village – about 3 months old had lost his mother and since latched onto one of the pet dogs Gustavo's family kept. This dog named Niño was a young male dog with fluffy hair and the children told me that's why Yuki, the mico, liked him because the fur was like a monkey's fur. Niño and Yuki were inseperable, save for when Yuki was out climbing trees. They ate and slept together and Yuki was normally found on Niño's back, playing with the children. I was amazed at this phenomenon. A domestic male dog was the surrogate mother for a wild baby monkey, and both animals were completely content with the situation. If humans could be more like this pair, what a beautiful world we would live in, where it wouldn't matter where you came from or what you looked like, but simply that two beings could offer one another help and companionship and form a symbiotic relationship.

As an animal lover, the dogs in the village were a joy for me to play with. I taught Caní, a little black pup, to fetch a stick, and I often picked her up and cuddled her throughout the day. My first night in the village I'd picked her up and just stood outside gazing up at the stars, and she relaxed in my arms like she'd been mine forever. I lost my dog to cancer last September and have missed her deeply in the months since, so being able to “adopt” some village dogs for my stay there was quite healing for my heart and soul. Before my trip people told me what a good person I must be for coming here, but I'm almost certain (and feeling somewhat guilty) I got as much, if not more, out of my trip than the villagers did.

"I am learning much – in humanity, in Spanish, in friendship, and more. I am doing things most people only dream of. It's really crazy to think “This is my life.” This is. I do have a real life in NYC but this too is real. This is the life I am making for myself. This is the life I would have imagined if I'd managed to think about myself. I want adventure, I want to meet people, I want to learn and teach and help.

And now...I am. :)"

My First Morning in La Libertad

Hello everyone! This is my first post here on the Amazon Pueblo blog. I'm doing a lot of editing and organizing from the journal I kept on my trip, so this is the first post of many. A tiny bit of background; my trip to La Libertad was my first foray outside of the United States, so it was a major milestone in my life. I've known Ben for nearly 15 years since we led camping and hiking trips together in Maine and I'm thrilled to be a part of this project. I simultaneously had absolutely no idea what I was getting myself into, while also knowing exactly what I was doing, when I bought my tickets. I wanted to have an adventure. I currently live and work right outside New York City and haven't spent nearly enough time in nature lately. Ben's website and blog prepared me very well for what I'd see and who I'd meet (and I hope to be able to impart a bit of helpful information for all future volunteers as well), but nothing could prepare me for what I felt within myself, beginning with my first flight's descent into Bogotá. 


Without further ado, here is the first coherent post from my notes, written on the morning after my first night in the village

***
“I'm thankful we have a toilet. It's not much, but it helps.” Thus began my first journal entry from the village, upon waking at 6am after spending my first night in La Libertad. By the time I wrote this entry I had left the US for the first time and spent a night in Bogotá, Colombia. I had walked across the border to Brasil – two countries in two days! - and I hadn't spoken English since Ben, David, and I had arrived at our hotel in Bogotá. I'd seen the jarring mix of poverty and contemporary life in the port city of Leticia and eaten a hearty dinner of rice and beans cooked for us by the villagers. And on this particular morning, I was waking to the sound of the rooster crowing next to our cabin, with the sun shining bright, and the clean air filling my lungs.

The afore-mentioned toilet in La Libertad

Leticia is curious enough to warrant an entire entry of its own, but for now, I just want to touch on the juxtaposition of poverty and modern comforts I witnessed all around the city. The houses are so very different than what I've seen in the US: nearly all ramshackle, run down, rickety wood floors with cracks and holes, very lightweight movable furniture, and most with little handmade signs selling wares or food. Same in Brasil. The level of poverty is truly eye-opening. The streets are full of street dogs and cats, none of which are neutered. The parks are messy and appear to be poorly maintained, filled with small food carts. And yet there are shops with current trends in clothing and people wearing the latest styles. There are restaurants with new dining rooms and fancy stemware. Motorbikes, smartphones, and Wifi signs are everywhere. New and remodeled buildings housed banks next to worn-down tour offices. In Leticia we talked with a tour agency to see what they offered and at what prices, to see if La Libertad would be able to offer similar programs. We also stopped in the office of a trade and export organization to learn a bit more about possible export opportunities for the future.

Ben inside Julio's (one of Gustavo's sons) homes in Leticia

Once we purchased food for the week, water for a few days, and a bottle of Brasilian cachaça to bring Happy Hour to the village, we set off for the port to catch a speedboat ride to La Libertad. We got kicked off the first boat we were on because we had so much gear and there wasn't enough room for all ticketed passengers plus our gear. Luckily another boat was leaving in about 15 minutes so we didn't have to wait long. A little over an hour later we arrived at La Libertad where Gustavo and his children were awaiting us. They helped us unload and hike up to the village and guest house. The first thing we did was set up our beds with nets to keep out mosquitos. I was surprised and impressed with the level of craftsmanship in the guesthouse and the level of care the family took in putting our beds together. The thatched roof, despite having a few thin patches, is overall very precise and perfect. During later storms, including an hours-long, intense thunderstorm, it also kept us and our gear dry. There are screens in all the windows and they had foam rolls and nets for every bunk bed. I'd brought two closed-cell camping sleeping pads to add to the foam pads too (which are now staying in the village for future volunteers).

My bed in the volunteer house

After this we went through our bags to unload food and supplies and to give tools to Gustavo. He talked to Ben about the solar panel and battery when we learned the battery they have is not sufficient...so we need to help find a solution for that. More important, though, was the clear lack of water filtration. They have not been using the filters and we had only brought water enough for two days or so. Gustavo cooked us dinner – beans and rice for me, with sausage for Ben and David! 

Then we went back to our guest house and read to the children and I sang songs. I broke a string on my guitar but it was okay – just my high E so I would survive. After a few songs it was time for bed and we wrapped everything up. Overall though it wasn't very different from primitive camping anywhere else – no lions roaring or anything. Our first priority was meeting with the villagers to discuss the project, where we stand, what we need to do ASAP (including remedying clean drinking water) to get things in motion for more volunteers and more forward motion with the sustainability project.

Ben reading to the children (and David)

Near Death on the Amazon, Part 2: The Propellor

The Propeller

After leaving Leticia we rounded a small island and headed into the main part of the river. But before going back to village, La Libertad, we stopped to fill our 5 gallon spare gasoline tank in the port city of Santa Rosa, Peru. This small city is located directly across from Leticia, on the Peruvian side of the river. Santa Rosa is frequently visited by Colombians and Brazilians from the area to buy cheap gasoline and other discounted goods at a number of huge floating stores called balsas. The mainland of Santa Rosa is not very interesting, with the exception of a restaurant where it is possible to play with monkeys, baby jaguars, see caimans (alligators) and anacondas and contract food poisoning.

Our stop at the balsas took us only 15 minutes. I also bought a kilo of nails that we needed for construction. When we left we were riding a bit lower in the water. We usually have a 24 foot boat, but today we had borrowed a 21 foot which leaked from poorly maintained seems. About every 10 minutes the driver or backmost person would have to bail water with a cut in half 2-liter soda bottle.

The first hour of our journey upriver was quite pleasant. The sun was hot but the wind of river travel produced a nicely cooling breeze. We frequently passed or were passed by other boats of varying sizes, speeds, and number of occupants. I took off my hiking boots, socks and rolled up my pants in an effort to get a bit of a tan. I always wear long pants while in the jungle to avoid as many bug bites as possible. Even so, my ankles and lower legs always seem to be covered in bites.

The sky started clouding over a little into the second hour of our trip. I saw dark, heavy clouds very far ahead of us and asked Gustavo if that meant rain. He said no, that the clouds were in Peru, further ahead than we were going. I had both my computer and cell phone with me, which I really did not want to get wet. My computer was in its carrying case and wrapped in a plastic garbage bag and could be placed on in my backpack, under a heavy coated nylon rain poncho. If the rain became extremely heavy, the kind where the visibility drops to less than 20 feet, I could wrap both my phone and computer in the case and switch the pack to my front. That was my emergency rain plan.

While in the midst of contemplating the complete rain soaking I may have received our boat was overtaking a much smaller, paddle-powered fishing boat. Just before I was to raise my hand in greeting I felt a slight thud under the boat and then the high-pitched whine which, without looking, I immediately associated with of our propeller lifted out of water. That was followed by a Spanish swear word uttered passionately by Gustavo. We were not longer under power, but our momentum carried us slowly by the fisherman until we were stopped and, then pushed back, by the water current. A glance at Gustavo told me that something serious had happened. He explained to me that our propeller had hit a submerged tree trunk and that half of it had broken off.

Gustavo exchanged words with the fisherman as we slowly drifted by. I could not understand all that was said as Gustavo was speaking in what I think of as River Spanish. This is a mixture of Spanish (with many words being cut off and simplified grammar) and many regional slang words. For example; a boat’s motor is named a pecky-pecky, which is derived from the sound of the machine.

Pecky-Pecky

The repair plan was to go downstream to Puerta Alegria at one-quarter throttle and buy a replacement propeller. Even half a propeller will propel, but not well and with the risk of completely breaking off. We did not have a paddle. Gustavo’s paddle had been stolen some months earlier. We headed, slowly, back downstream.

After about 20 minutes of river travel and another 15 minutes to find, buy and install a replacement propeller we were back on our way to La Libertad. However, by this time the rain and wind had arrived. The men of Puerta Alegria advised us to be careful because of the strong waves caused by the wind. Gustavo told them that we would hug the left shore until Monkey Island, and then cross below the island which would protect us from the worst of the waves. This response satisfied them.

Puerta Alegria

As we left the shore I wrapped myself in a heavy rain poncho. I wished for the warmth of a life vest. I had brought some down on a trip a year earlier, but unfortunately they had been damaged and all but one, which we did not have, thrown away.

It was 4:30 now. Our arrival time in the village should be slightly past 6pm. This was very important as sunset is around 5:50. We had no light and river travel during the night is treacherous.

Next: Near Death on the Amazon, Part 3, The Storm.

Near Death on the Amazon: Part 1, Leticia

Letica
(I would like to alleviate the fears of my mother and to assure my blog readers everything did work out well.)

The bow of the boat

 We left the village at 6 in the morning to buy supplies. It helps to leave early as the sun is not yet that intense and the wind tends to be less strong (therefore less powerful waves) earlier in the day. Most of the stores at which we supply open early in the morning and close at noon for a 2 hour lunch. I am not sure why a two hour lunch is needed or what everyone does, but it is the custom in the city of Leticia. Gustavo, an experienced river and jungle guide like to leave the city at noon to return to the village well before sunset. To navigate at night without lights is very hazardous.

Gustavo was at the helm of the boat and his 9 year old son Hector at the bow. The brisk morning air and wind was chilling to the boy, who had placed his arms inside his t-shirt where they remained for the majority of the 90 minute trip downriver. Gustavo was constantly on the lookout for floating sticks, logs, and the occasional tree trunk which was also, slowly, making its way downstream.

We arrived in the port city of Leticia a little after 7:30. Over 100 small and midsized boats are docked at floating barges or on the shore. Many others arrive or depart with a rhythm that reminds me of working honey bees. After docking and securing our craft we spend the next 5 hours buying things for the kitchen construction which is scheduled to begin the following day. Slightly after noon we found a good deal on a 4 burner stove. We spent the next two hours getting the associated propane tank, connections, hoses, and more cookware. While we knew we would leave later than usual, the sun was strong, winds clam, and only a few soft, pillow-like clouds were in the intensely blue sky.

At a little after 2 pm we left Leticia to travel back to the village. Our arrival time would be around 5 pm, well before nightfall. It would be an easy trip, we thought….

Click to read the next part -Near Death on the Amazon, Part 2: The Propeller.

Monkey with dog.  Not directly related to the story, but very cute.

Arrived in the village two days ago!

I arrived in the village last Wednesday.  I have met with groups of people three different times and all are very receptive to the project!  Much different from last year.  I am in the city of Leticia today to buy what we need to finish the kitchen construction.  Sarah, our current volunteer, is bush teaching English and doing music activities with the villagers.

More info, and pictures, in the next post.

Fundraiser a success!

Our Fundraiser at Billy's Tavern Raised Over $2,900

Thank you to all the people who attended, the band Primo Cubano, our business sponsors Brooks Trap Mill, Billy's Tavern, and Strout Payson, P.A.

Primo Cubano

Primo Cubano rocked the house!  At times there was standing room only at the tavern.  We had periodic raffle drawings for prizes ranging from Colombian emeralds, exclusive Colombian coffee, handmade Amazonian jewelry, to piranha skull necklaces and Amazonian blowguns!

Suggested donations accepted

A big thanks to the Brooks girls for covering the door during the first hours of the event and to Nohora for the later hour.  A thanks also goes out to Mark for supervising the blowgun trials and to Pat for busing the tables!

auction and sales table

Julie and Dana did an excellent job of selling raffle tickets, t-shirts, and answering questions about the silent auction and overall project goals.

mom n friends

My mother, sporting a fashionable Amazon Pueblo t-shirt (available for sale on our website) and her friends enjoying the festivities!

two happy patrons

These lovely women are enjoying Mojito cocktails.  This drink and the Cuba Libre were the specialty drinks of the night.  $1 of the cost of each drink was donated to the project!

raffle winner 

Congratulations to Beverly Pacheco, the winner of four cut emeralds valued at $1,500!  She was very happy.  Please come to our next fundraiser for a chance to win your own Colombian emerald!


My next post will be from Bogota, Colombia.  Tomorrow I start my journey back to the Amazon village of La Libertad!

Our Fundraiser's Program for this Friday

Hope to see you there!

Click HERE for more information about the fundraiser.

Emeralds for the Amazon

Only one week before our first major fundraiser!  Here is a look at some of the emeralds that will be available for raffle and silent auction throughout the evening June 14 at Billy's Tavern in Thomaston, Maine.

Thank you to Dan Chambers of Chambers Jewelers in Thomaston, Maine for donating his appraisal services.

Lot 4, 2.41ct. emerald gem

Lot 5, emerald earrings

Lot 7, rough emerald

Lot 5, emerald crystals

Lot 6, four matching emerald cut gems

Lot 2, three deep-medium green gems

Amazon Pueblo T-Shirts!

Here it is!  The original Amazon Pueblo t-shirt.

Made from 100% organic cotton.  The logo was designed by Simmons Ardell of Portland, Maine and printed at Maine Printing and Embroidery in Warren, Maine.  We have them just in time for the dance event at Billy's Tavern, June 14.

If you would like one please follow this link to our website.  Each purchase includes a donation to the cause.

They make great gifts!

Our first major fundraising event! June 14 at Billy's Tavern, Thomaston, Maine.

Enjoy yourself while helping to strengthen the village of La Libertad.  The event starts at 7 pm, Friday, June 14.  We will be holding raffles and silent auctions of exclusive Colombian coffee, emeralds, handmade jewelry, and an authentic Amazonian blowgun!

After months of planning it is finally happening.  A special thanks to our board of directors for helping to plan the event.  We also would like to express our gratitude to our business sponsors, Billy's Tavern, Brooks Trap Mill, and Strout & Payson.

The very popular band Primo Cubano will be playing during the evening.  Advanced ticket sales ($10 suggested donation) are available at: benangulo@amazonpueblo.org.

Special Tribal Member tickets may also be purchased in advance or at the door.  These exclusive tickets are priced at $50 each and include admittance, an Amazon Pueblo t-shirt, choice of handmade jewelry from the village, and entry into a limited raffle for emerald earrings or a blowgun (winner's choice).

If you would like to donate but cannot attend the event, please try our new PayPal Donate button below!

If this link does not work please send me an email at benangulo@amazonpueblo.org